Goodbye to dizzying reconstructions and phosphorescent crystals, minimal nails are back: is it just a fad?

Say goodbye to dramatic nail reconstructions, crystal applications, or impressive three-dimensional nail art. This decision isn't particularly surprising, considering that TPO, an ingredient used in gels and semi-permanent nail polishes, will be banned in the European Union starting September 1, 2025. This decision is due to the reclassification of this substance by regulatory authorities. Based on a new classification by the European Chemicals Agency (ECHA), TPO has been listed as potentially toxic to reproduction. This doesn't mean there's an immediate health risk, but rather that an important precautionary principle is being applied. This change of pace is the result of a combination of fashion, health concerns, and hype.  

The fact remains that just a few months after the break, nails are reappearing in their most essential form: short, shiny, and healthy. The spring 2026 runways have celebrated them, red carpets have embraced them, and salons around the world are recording numbers that speak for themselves: minimal manicures have grown 250% year-over-year, while demand for milky white nail polish is up 24%, according to data from the Fresha platform. They're calling it 'naked nails,' 'bare nails,' or, even more tellingly, 'your nails but better.' Behind the labels, there's only one direction: a return to authentic beauty.  

After years of maximalism, all-out gel, and increasingly elaborate applications, the new generations have rediscovered the pleasure of enhancing natural nails rather than covering them. Simple, minimal, elegant, and essential styles are booming across social media platforms. Transparent nudes, milky finishes, impalpable pinks, and compact lengths in soft shapes like squovals, almonds, and rounds. It's 'quiet luxury' that's landed on the fingertips: discreet, versatile, and designed for everyday life. It's not just about aesthetics: underlying the phenomenon is a growing concern for nail health: repeated gels, acrylics, and aggressive nail removal leave nails brittle and weakened over time, and the bare nail movement also arose as a reaction, a conscious choice toward a manicure that nourishes rather than stresses. 

But what do industry professionals think? Roberto Papa, national secretary of the Confestetica association, spoke to Adnkronos/Labitalia. "The return to classic nail polish," he emphasizes, "is primarily a choice made by young people, who we know are following the current trend driven by social media, which is currently supporting a return to natural nails. However, the interesting thing is that they may have lost confidence in general, given that the use of TPO treatment has been associated with a risk to fertility." 

But Roberto Papa believes there may also be some kind of "direction" behind it. "More than fashion," he emphasizes, "I'd also call it a form of advertising that induces a certain choice, perhaps originating from those who, by selling nail polish, are trying to capture the market share previously held by semi-permanent products, which, while lasting longer, raise concerns about their health effects. Furthermore, since May 1st, a European regulation has been in effect that has changed the use of silver CI 77820 in nail art products. This regulation, part of Regulation (EC) No. 1223/2009 on cosmetic products, imposes new restrictions on the use of this metallic pigment, widely used to create chrome effects, glitter, and metallic finishes on nails. Young people are much more conscious than previous generations; they read, educate themselves to protect their health, and choose to eliminate anything that could be harmful."  

"Based on our academy's experience, we can confirm that there is a growing demand for natural, well-groomed, and versatile manicures," says Carlo Matthey, CEO of the Liliana Paduano Academy, a historic benchmark in professional training in the beauty and nail industry. "The new generations are looking for high-performance yet easy-to-use products that enhance the natural nail and allow for easy look changes, without sacrificing quality and durability," echoes Valentina Iovino, art director of Lilianails, a segment that recently launched the Classic Nail Polish line. This line responds to the growing demand from nail professionals and enthusiasts: not a single polish, but a series of products to prepare, protect, and finish the natural nail, designed to restore the focus of traditional manicures without resorting to invasive techniques. The line's aesthetic was defined by the work of the Academy's instructors, who tested and selected each product based on educational criteria: hold, ease of application, and performance on bare nails. A choice that addresses the emerging trend (the health of the nail plate), placing the line within the same logic as "naked nails": enhancing the nail, not replacing it. "We're not chasing a trend," assures Ioviono, "we're seeing it for what it is: a shift in mentality. Those who choose a natural manicure today aren't giving up anything. They're simply asking for the nail to be enhanced, not what's applied over it." (by Sabrina Rosci)  

(Adnkronos)